Our Istria.

A 16th-century olive press turned konoba. One of the most atmospheric dining rooms in all of Istria. They cook what they grow. Book at least two days ahead in summer.

Roasted meats, truffle pasta, local wine by the carafe. Outdoor terrace in a hilltop village. Exactly what Istria is supposed to feel like. No frills, no disappointment.

Run by Giancarlo Zigante, who found the world's largest white truffle in 1999 just a few kilometres from here. Truffle-forward and serious. Worth it for a special occasion.

Our local. No tourist crowd. The kind of place where the owner asks if you want more bread without being asked. Grilled fish on Fridays. Worth making a habit of.

A family operation, two generations. They'll take you into the forest with their dogs and show you how it actually works — not a performance, a real hunt. Ends with tasting. One of the most memorable mornings in Istria.

The most famous truffle shop in Istria. Truffle oils, pastes, fresh truffles in season, preserved goods. If you want to bring something home, this is where to get it.

One of Istria's best. Their Malvazija is the standard by which we judge others. The winery sits in a renovated stone building with a tasting room overlooking the vineyard. Call ahead.

Family winery in a stunning hilltop location near Motovun. Their Teran is excellent — a variety you won't find outside Istria. Informal tastings, genuinely welcoming. Combine with a Motovun visit.

Small organic producer near Momjan making some of the most interesting natural wines in Istria. Less known than Kozlović, which is part of the appeal. The estate is beautiful.

Climb to the Church of St Euphemia for the view over the harbour. Go in the evening when the light is amber and most of the day-trippers have left.

A pine forest nature park just south of Rovinj with rocky coves and clear water. Not a beach exactly — more a place to swim from rocks. Completely different feel from the marina.

A small museum about the traditional flat-bottomed Rovinj fishing boat. Easy to overlook, worth half an hour. More interesting than it sounds.

Walk the medieval walls. In late July it hosts one of Europe's best independent film festivals — buy tickets early. Combine with a winery visit on the way back.

An artists' village that was almost abandoned in the 1960s and repopulated by artists and musicians. No chain shops. Galleries in converted stone houses, a jazz festival in summer.

The self-styled "city of truffles." A small medieval settlement with views over the Mirna valley. Worth combining with a truffle shop visit. Truffle Festival takes over the town each September.

The closest swimming to the villa. Several small rocky and pebble coves around Funtana. Quieter than the resort beaches. Worth driving over on a hot afternoon.

The best combination of beach and town. Pine forest, clear water, a properly beautiful setting. Go before 10:00 or after 17:00 in high season. The walk through Zlatni Rt from the old town is part of the point.

A proper organised beach with sun loungers and facilities — useful if you have young children. Not our personal style, but the water is excellent.

The main supermarkets for weekly shopping. Lidl in Poreč is well-stocked, open daily. For Croatian wines, local olive oil and cheese — the Saturday market in Poreč old town is better.

Held in the old town every Saturday morning. Local producers selling honey, olive oil, lavender, homemade spirits, seasonal fruit. The best place to buy things worth taking home.